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Community Highlights: Meet Jillian Forte of At Sara’s Table Chester Creek Cafe

Today we’d like to introduce you to Jillian Forte.

Hi Jillian, we’re thrilled to have a chance to learn your story today. So, before we get into specifics, maybe you can briefly walk us through how you got to where you are today.
My food love began as a child watching my Cuban Abuelita make Congri and yellow rice and chicken for big family gatherings. I imitated her by making inedible “berry stew” in my frisbee with ingredients found in my backyard. Long before the advent of the Food Network I had “Jillian’s Cooking Show” where I used the family camcorder to record episodes of me cooking. I was only allowed to use the old condiments in the back of the fridge so those too were inedible!

I started cooking in the BWCAW at the Gunflint Lodge. As I learned the basics and watched the complexities my interest was piqued. I continued my culinary journey in Duluth then out in Oregon at a fine dining restaurant. I realized there was so much to learn that I kept reading cookbooks and foodie magazines and experimenting with flavor profiles.

After a stint in Costa Rica, I returned to Duluth and was hired At Sara’s Table Chester Creek Cafe as a line cook. I learned from some amazing chefs and was allowed to play with the garden’s food. I slowly became friends with a lot of local farmers and discovered what was in season up here in the Northland, where our growing season is short but sweet! Eventually, I became the kitchen manager and then head chef.

In that capacity, I took the creative lead and offered Table to Farm experiences. Bringing people out to tour a local farm, then crafting a fine dining experience out in the fields. I realized that as a former vegetarian, I would always be a vegetable-forward type of chef. My absolute joy in eating directly out of a garden informs my choice of dishes to build in the restaurant. It turns out that my customers love it too!

After 17 years at the cafe, I decided to move to Mexico so I could eat my way around another country. While away, I started working on a cookbook that celebrates At Sara’s Table. I realized that the cafe’s unique non-hierarchical culture allowed so many of my brilliant coworkers opportunities to create dishes. The book morphed into a sort of culinary collage highlighting the various chefs throughout the years, stories, memories, and culinary tips collected from coworkers.

After 2 years of living abroad, I return to Duluth and the cafe as a General Manager and head chef. I feel lucky to have found a culinary home where I can play with my food, enjoy my life, and have a kitchen to return to after soothing my traveling soul.

We all face challenges, but looking back would you describe it as a relatively smooth road?
Most definitely not. As a petite woman in this male-dominated field, I had to assert myself, to learn some of the coveted skills, in a way that was not threatening to the men in the kitchen. I do not like confrontation, yelling, or aggressive behavior things that are fairly common in the average kitchen but are happily fading away.

Thus, I created an environment based on mutual respect and clear communication. I developed leadership techniques based on defined and written expectations and follow through when those were not met. I strive to be fair, and compassionate but also firm and competent in every action. I don’t want to be yelled at and so I don’t do that to others. To be seen as an equal I realized I needed to be better than most. This motivated me to hone my culinary, prep, line, and leadership skills.

As a single mom, working in a restaurant that discouraged overtime (something I was immensely grateful for) I became very efficient and deliberate in all my actions. This internal drive to become the best I could be was draining, I burned myself out a few times along the road. I once quit the restaurant for 6 months to travel and teach my daughter and myself Spanish. I have had to learn to balance my hard work ethic, a need for socializing, and quality downtime.

As you know, we’re big fans of At Sara’s Table Chester Creek Cafe. For our readers who might not be as familiar what can you tell them about the brand?
Sara’s Table is a women-owned and majority women-managed restaurant, that focuses on local foods and scratch cooking. We pride ourselves on seeking out high quality humanely harvested meats and seasonal produce, organic when possible. We create a “comfort food” with a twist while being accommodating and aware of food allergies, sensitives, and dietary preferences.

We pride ourselves on our delicious and unique vegan and gluten-free dishes. Our cozy bar offers housed crafted cocktails, MN or sustainably produced wines, and as many local beers as our tap handles can take! The owners are constantly thinking about our industry’s impact on the environment and how we can reduce our footprint. We compost in-house and are a neighborhood collection site, lights are on sensors, and we are conscious of wasting water and gas.

We are currently looking into creating a single dish that requires no cooking with gas, as a way to reduce our usage. We strive to be an inclusive LGBT and gender non-conforming safe work environment. We support increasing Earned Safe and Sick policies for our staff and believe in paying livable wages.

What has been the most important lesson you’ve learned along your journey?
To act from a place of love, not out of fear. When I follow my bliss, my food cravings, and my intuition I have the best results. For example, when I am making a new menu, I imagine myself on a perfect day in that coming season (I’m imagining a beach-filled summer right now) and then think about what I would want to eat! Thinking of sun-kissed skin and sand in between my toes makes me think I’d have to stay hydrated and eat light.

I’d want a watermelon cocktail, a salad loaded with fresh veggies, and grilled fish. Or I think about how I want to look forward to coming to work so I can hang out with my friends, laugh, work hard, and feel pride. So that’s the work culture I try to create. As a leader, it’s important to hold the vision, know the goal, and forge the path. It’s always about the Journey but the destination needs to be the focal point.

Pricing:

  • Cookbook $25.99

Contact Info:

  • Website: astccc.net and chefjillianforte.com
  • Instagram: @atsarastablechestercreekcafe and @chefjillianforte
  • Facebook: @At Sara’s Table/Chester Creek Cafe

Image Credits
Amanda Clark and Clint Austin

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