Today we’d like to introduce you to Abraham Gessesse.
Abraham, we appreciate you taking the time to share your story with us today. Where does your story begin?
I started cooking for my now wife 12 years ago when we began dating. She was a vegetarian and I was broke, so I had to actually learn how to cook a great meal from scratch in order for us to have enjoyable dates. I started watching Gordon Ramsey obsessively, trying to absorb every bit of knowledge I could get my hands on.
I ended up attending the Job Corps as soon as I found out they had a Culinary Arts program. I was so motivated that I completed the program in about three months. I then externed and worked for Russell Klein at Brasserie Zentral, the best fine-dining restaurant in the Twin Cities at the tie. From there I worked at Spoon and Stable for Gavin Kaysen, until my wife and I decided to move to Norway. In Norway I had the opportunity to stage at a few amazing restaurants like Restaurant Kontrast in Oslo. Most of all, I was lucky enough to experience a different way of life and culture.
When I came back to Minnesota I helped Chef Rikki Giambruno open Hyacinth restaurant. Rikki was from a group of fine dining guys who worked at Per Se and Corton who decided to take a serios attempt at Italian food on its own terms. They took over Franny’s in Brooklyn and it really became a New York Institution, Rikki was the final chef before it closed. Hyacinth represents the logical creative progression of Franny’s.
I worked at Hyacinth on and off over six years, during which I also worked for Shige Furukawa at Kado No Mise. Kado No Mise is a true Japanese restaurant that any Japanese person would think is in Ginza. Shige is without compromise, a very technically-skilled, his focus was Kaiseki also known as Traditional Japanese Fine Dining. I wanted to be the best, and so naturally I had to work for him. I really learned how to be a Chef from him and his team, how to get knives really sharp, how to handle stress, how to grow, how to make things sustainable.
I moved out to the West Coast to spend time with family and ended up a Sous Chef in a tiny kitchen with Chef Jason Stratton called Mezzanotte. Jason Stratton is a nationally recognized expert of Piedmont Cuisine. Working for Jason I learned so much about the different cultures, rules, and cooking styles of Italy. This was so of like getting my Master’s Degree in Italian Cooking.
After cooking in Seattle for a few years I ended up buying Hyacinth from Rikki and moving back to Minnesota. I bought it with the intention of progressing on what Chef Rikki Giambruno had already built. This year is my first year, and I’ve managed to snag a James Beard Semi-Finalist Nomination. I plan to keep pushing forward and continuing to improve this restaurant.
I’m sure it wasn’t obstacle-free, but would you say the journey has been fairly smooth so far?
It has been a challenge to figure out how to continue to evolve such a beloved and pioneering restaurant to the place of financial viability. Thankfully the whole staff decided to stay on when I took over Hyacinth, and we are realizing our goal.
I also was not a well-known chef when I took over. Rikki’s were huge shoes to fill, but through hard work and determination, I’ve been able to win over the Twin Cities.
Alright, so let’s switch gears a bit and talk business. What should we know about your work?
I am recognized for Neo-Italian, Farm-To-Table Casual Fine-Dining. I have studied regional Italian cuisines, and then added influence from my other experiences in French, New Nordic, and Japanese Cuisine.
What sets us apart is our commitment to seasonal, local produce with minimal manipulation. Our food is always fresh and our flavors nuianced. I’m proud to represent a powerful expression of our region.
We love surprises, fun facts and unexpected stories. Is there something you can share that might surprise us?
I am an avid hiker. I love to explore remote areas of Minnesota, Washington and Canada. I hope to translate a little bit of my outdoor experiences into my work.
Contact Info:
- Website: https://www.hyacinthstpaul.com/
- Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/hyacinth.restaurant/
- Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/people/Hyacinth-Restaurant/61572907361353/
